DON'T LET MICRON MADNESS CRIMP YOUR STYLE
By Mike Safley
I was always a chubby kid growing up. My Mom, God bless her soul,
was the world's finest cook. We ate well, from biscuits and gravy
to pork chops and apple pie. As a result I had a high micron count
mid-side.
At the tender age of seventeen I went to Navy boot camp, lost
thirty-five pounds and six inches around my waist. Ever since
I've been overly concerned about the diameter of my waist. Now
at age fifty-five and thanks to Julie's home cooking, my mid-side
diameter is slowly inching up again. I gotta admit that I'm not
as concerned about it today as I once was and that started me
thinking about "micron madness."
Everyone who comes on the farm these days is concerned about
two items - micron count and crimp. I, myself, have written much
about the virtues of skinny fleece and bold crimp, so I began
to ponder whether this narrow focus was all that healthy for our
industry.
I am concerned that if we place too much emphasis on one or two
selection criteria, we may do so to the detriment of the breed
we're trying so hard to improve. We need to remember that large,
well-muscled animals that forage efficiently are essential. Mothers
need to be good milkers. The constitution of every alpaca we raise
should be our first consideration if we are going to develop a
sound livestock industry. See Alpacas, Synthesis of a Miracle.
MICRON MADNESS
Today, people are going from state to state and farm to farm
selecting alpacas, often with only one thought in mind - what
is the micron count? I can tell you that a histogram is absolutely
and unequivocally irrelevant as the basis of evaluation for two
different animals from two different farms. The problem is further
complicated if the animals being compared are of different age
and different sex or if the histogram is an old one.
If you, the buyer, go out and purchase three animals, one from
Oregon, one from Colorado, and one from Ohio, with identical micron
counts, take them home to your farm for one year, and then shear
them, you will find a huge variance from the original test results
for those three fleeces. I guarantee it!
A selection criteria, which includes density, animal size, staple
length, typyness, handle, an absence of medulation, good body
condition, crimp, and luster, all viewed in perspective, is far
superior to one based solely on micron count.
Fiber grows fat on overfed animals and "starvation fine"
on underfed animals. I think most of us can relate to a changing
waist line based on food intake. Putting too much emphasis on
a particular criteria, such as micron count, which is directly
impacted by environment, is foolhardy.
The only fiber fineness which is valuable or relevant is genetically
based. It is much more revealing, if fineness is your goal, to
ask a breeder for all histograms on his yearling alpacas which
were sampled at the same shearing. This allows analysis with the
environment neutralized. In other words, all the animals presumably
ate the same diet over the same period of time. In this herd based
scenario, the animals which have the lower micron count are more
likely to be genetically inclined to fineness.
Over time, I believe sound breeding objectives should have the
following priorities: 1) raising alpacas which will grow and thrive,
2) fill as many fleece bags as possible, and 3) produce fiber
of premium value. Balance is the key. We want, overall, outstanding
alpacas.
IS CRIMP YOUR STYLE?
There is a lot of mystery surrounding crimp. Is it good or even
necessary? Should the crimp be bold or fine, frequent or broad?
Is crinkle the thing to have or is straight suri fiber superior?
Does more crimp indicate finer fiber?
One person will tell you that processors won't pay a dime for
crimp. Another person says that crimp makes for superior yarn.
Some breeders find crimp attractive and many measure the quality
of their fleece by the amount of crimp present. Other breeders
couldn't care less about crimp and value handle as their main
fleece quality. In fact, if you ask three alpaca breeders about
their opinion regarding crimp, you're likely to get four opinions.
Crimp is obviously a complex subject. CSIRO, the Australian research
organization, has recently developed a "style instrument."
Crimp (amongst other things) can now be measured as related to
processing performance in wool tops.
The results of the processing trials conducted by CSIRO are not
what you might expect. Before we discuss the findings, it's important
to understand that the trials were on wool and the results may
not correlate to alpaca fiber. With that in mind, CSIRO found
that:
1) Wool with a crimp frequency of five crimps per centimeter
would process four millimeters longer than wool of six crimps
per centimeter at the same fiber diameter, strength, and length.
2) When wool was classified into three crimp style definitions,
high, medium, and low, the wool with high crimp definition produced
tops which were four millimeters longer than wool in the medium
category.
David Marland of CSIRO maintains that once these measurements
become commercially available processors will use them in "prediction
equations" to decide which sale lots to buy for a particular
order. Staple length is important to manufacturers. They pay a
premium for longer fiber.
It's also interesting that Marland identified a series of trade
offs that related to longer staple length or "Hauter"
in the wool tops. They included an increase in strength, which
is of commercial value in wool.
The concept of crimp and its relationship to value is undergoing
change in the wool business. The old court system which was used
to determine micron count (the more crimp, the finer the fiber)
has been found to be somewhat inaccurate. With the advent of the
LASAR SCAN and OFDA measuring devices, it's been proven that crimp
count does not always accurately determine micron count.
The new style instrument will surely lead to more understanding
of how crimp is valuable to the textile processors. Crimp can
also be an informative guide to the breeder in selecting animals.
I realize that little is know or has been written about what
crimp means to an alpaca breeder. In fact, Rigoberto Calle Escobar's
book, Animal Breeding and Production of American Camelids, states
on page 68:
"The crimp(*) differentiates the alpaca fiber from sheep
wool. Alpaca fiber lacks crimp, and if it has it, it is almost
imperceptible; except in the case of the huacaya, where in some
individuals it is possible to notice a curling, though not as
noticeable as in sheep.
(*) Crimp: Regular and successive undulations on the same plane,
which is different from a curl, which is curved, spiraled, and
in different planes. Alpaca fiber does not have crimp, not even
in the newly born."
In other words, Escobar is saying that crimp is not a phenotypic
trait of alpacas.
With all due respect of Professor Escobar, I disagree. Alpacas
do exhibit crimp. It can be selected for and it is heritable.
From my point of view as a breeder, I find crimp definition to
be a useful selection criterion. In my opinion, crimp is evidence
of the following characteristics:
1) Crimp indicates uniformity in the fleece. A uniform fleece
will exhibit the same crimp characteristics over the body of the
animal.
2) Crimp is an indication of density. A dense, crimpy fleece
often has a well organized lock and staple structure that allows
for more and longer fiber to occupy a smaller space, much like
a well folded newspaper occupies less space than one which has
been wadded up in an unorganized fashion and piled on the floor.
3) A fleece with high crimp definition will stay cleaner and
more compact from one shearing to the next.
4) A staple with crimp measures longer than one without, once
it is processed. This allows the breeder to select for longer
staple length by breeding crimp into the alpacas' fleece.
5) Crimp indicates fineness.
6) Crimp wins in the show ring.
I realize the above are personal opinions. Crimp makes for an
interesting debate. Given the data presented by CSIRO, and their
ability to measure crimp frequency and definition scientifically,
we, as alpaca breeders, should give this subject some thought.
If we find that a certain type of crimp is a more positive trait
than another style of crimp, we can select for it. If not, we
should select against it. But there is no doubt that breeding
for crimp in huacayas will improve our product's acceptance by
the textile industry.
I offer the above discussion of micron madness and crimp style
as food for thought. There is nothing like a well nourished mind.
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